woensdag 1 juni 2011

Palawan Honeymoon

Summary: It was awesome, Palawan is beautiful, Filipinos are a cool and superfriendly people, Freya loved it and I am reborn! That’s it, bye bye…

Got time? Read on, but not to worry, it’ll be mostly pictures, with some text on reflection at the end. After the last blog post we moved to Palawan, and there we spend time catching up with some old friends that live there, did some days of Island Hopping (spending the day moving from the one island/coral reef to the next to relax and snorkel, whilst drinking from coconuts and basking in the sun in between), and having honeymoon time at Secret Paradise Retreat and Flower Island. On the latter we had the whole island to ourselves, as we were the only guests… A photographic impression (click on the pictures for an enlargement):

In a tricycle to Honda Bay for some Island Hopping

Pandan Island

No Fam, it is not what you think it looks like!

Feeding fish my own burnt skin that is now peeling

Nemo's brother in law

Sea cucumber amongst sponge

Pufferfish

Our Honeymoon suite at Secret Paradise Retreat

Aahhhh...

Long-tailed Macaque

Enjoying some waterfall in some rain forest

Hermit Crab

More Island Hopping: Nudibranch

Giant Clam

Freya with her new friend that followed her for an hour

The whole island for ourselves

Our suite

The view from our suite

Snorkelling at Flower Island, Cowrie

Giant Clam again, different colour

Mangrove Excursion: 300 year old mangroves

Python in mangroves

Mangrove Snake

Excursion into the Underground River

But then again, my name wouldn’t be Nick if it would all go normal (I know my name isn’t Nick, so shut up, it just by figure of speech). For example, after 1 day in Palawan, while still in its capital Puerto Princessa, I got bed-ridden for a few days by high fever. Haven’t been so ill in years. Freya took wonderful loving honeymoon care for me only to get ill just once I was getting better. Just as she was getting better and we were finally ready to move on with our journey I got a Fukoshima like nuclear meltdown in my tummy, which luckily only lasted for a day.  Over the next few days at Secret Paradise Retreat we both got time to enjoy and to recover fully.

And then lovely Paradise Retreat was indeed lovely, but not only for us… Also for some mutant flesh-eating fruit fly like horrible little things that devoured Freya alive… Never seen anyone going so crazy with itchiness… 


Her legs and arms looked the same
And we learned a lot too: For example: Filipinos have a life-jacket fetish… You are required to wear it everywhere, not only in boats on complete calm water, but even whilst you are snorkelling!

Typical Filipinos


We also learned that T.I.A. doesn’t only stand for This Is Africa, but can equally mean This Is Asia, and we learned it the hard way… Despite being used to a fair amount of stupidity and non-logical things in Africa, here in the Philippines they can be quite a match for Africa at times. Why did the amazing honeymoon suite at Secret Paradise Retreat have everything right except its mosquito net? That was a square net, wee-coloured, with a too big mesh size and its ‘ceiling’ hanging only 50 cm above the bed. Only if we would lie flat on our back we would not touch it. Some duct-tape, fishing line and some Dutch practical thinking solved it quickly though. Diving was advertised as an activity at Flower Island. Upon arrival: No there is no diving here, but we take you on an excursion to a nearby pearl farm instead. Our dolphin excursion from Casa Rosa in TayTay also went a little strange: We were picked up late, by a drunk tricycle driver, were brought to the ‘tour operator’ who wasn’t informed he had to do a tour, who then found a boat somewhere, had some boys take all the leaves out of it and off we went. Oh no, we didn’t, the engine wouldn’t start. Paddle back to the shore, new spark plugs and here we go again. One and a half hour later, without the tour operator having said a single word to us, he says: ‘There are no dolphins, we go back now, hope you liked it…’ And so there were a hundred other small things that we thought would only happen/be found in Africa.

And we learned that the Mayor of Puerto Princesa is really pro-tourism…To the point that his marketing is a little exaggerated… Everywhere (Lonely Planet, brochures and folders) Puerto Princesa is advertised as ‘the city in a forest’ and that it is the cleanest and most orderly city in the whole of the Philippines. Well, to us it looked like a Mtubatuba, but then squared. Okay, there was little litter, me must give her that, but the amount of smog that those hundreds of tricycles produce is unbearable, and the way they drive is everything but orderly. It makes a zulu taxi driver a neat, considerate and safe chauffeur… The forest? Not to be seen, it is indeed surrounding the city on its outskirts, but isn’t that the case with almost any city in the world? And to conclude, Puerto Princesa’s major attraction, the subterranean river with which it draws hundreds of tourists is actually not in Puerto Princesa, but in Sabang some 70 km away. It’s like Amsterdam claiming that you must come and visit it for its Amsterdam Forest National Park and then sending arriving tourists to the Veluwe… Ach well, T.I.A. (Asian version), we had a good time anyway.


Puerto Princesa

70 km away from Puerto Princesa ;-)

One thing we must say though: The Filipino version of the Toyota Quantum Taxi is just awesome! Can you believe they have thousands of these everywhere in the Philippines?



Self-reflection: As mentioned in the previous post, I have had lots of time to think, and on Palawan I have had even more time. I even managed to find time to read two novels this honeymoon/holiday! Amazing! Another book I read had a more serious side to it, and the information/wisdom in that book made me ponder my life even more, which was good. Coupled with lots of time to think things over and reflect on my life in South Africa I almost feel like being reborn here. And on our last day in the Philippines, Kung Fu Panda summarized all my thoughts into one line: “We must search for, and find, inner peace.” Yep, blablabla but for me it makes sense…

We’re back now in St. Lucia, life is good here too. Lets see how long my inner peace lasts in Zululand…

Bye Bye,

Geert-Nick and Freya

vrijdag 13 mei 2011

Honeymoon in the Philippines

Right, all is good here and we are having an awesome time in the Philippines.  After a quick stop in Manila we traveled to a small tropical island in the North where Freya did her research 5 years ago, spend an awesome week there snorkeling over incredible coral reefs, drinking from coconuts and living amongst the locals. That summarizes it. For the ones that have some time to spare a long story about our experiences so far. The very busy ones amongst you, caught up in the rat race or not, don’t worry about reading this all, you can carry on with your life and just know that we are having a good time.


Okay, we checked into our hostel for our first night of honeymoon in Manila (Who had that idea, to check into a dodgy hostel for the first night of honeymoon!!! What an idiot I am sometimes?), and this hostel basically rented some (the crappiest?) rooms in a skyscraper hotel, and sublet these to backpackers. So after entering this skyscraper, where nothing but marble, mirrors, chandeliers and porters in suit seemed very promising, we are brought to the 15th floor were nothing of this marble, mirrors, chandeliers and porters are remotely present… Bummer… She shows us our ‘suite’, consisting of a kitchenette, a bathroom and a bedroom, quite a bit more than we bargained for as it was, after all, a hostel we booked. Off she goes and we have a good look around. The bedroom was Spartan but okay, the kitchen we did not intent to use anyways, but the bathroom looked pre-historic. Not only that, there was hair in the sinks everywhere etc. and the whole thing looked as if it was cleaned longer than a week ago. Some may say I am a snob, and Freya certainly says so, but I ditched my backpacker-attitude 6 years ago, and now just enjoy the comforts in life, as well as ‘good quality of life’. So it comes as no surprise that I took the phone, phoned the reception of our hostel and a few sentences later a cleaner was running (for her life) to come and clean this whole suite. Look, I booked a hostel, so I am not bitching about the looks of the place, but surely I am paying for something clean!


Then, just after we have settled in nicely, the girl from reception is cleaning for her life, and I am about to start walking around naked in our suite (what else are you supposed to do on your honeymoon?), the door opens again and there is Brian. Who the heck is Brian? Well, that is what I thought… Brian turned out to be a friendly Asian-American from California who is also staying in our suite! Yeah I did notice another door in the kitchenette, and assumed it was a cupboard, but apparently it was another bedroom… So much for our honeymoon privacy…


A day later we took a bus to the mainland town closest to the remote Babuyan Islands, where Freya did her research 5 years ago. That bus (with the aircon set to 12 degrees) turned out to be a fridge. Freya came well prepared, with beanie, scarf and the lot, but was still freezing her butt off. I myself, well, I took all her warnings before as ‘an exaggeration’, so didn’t take more than a thin vest with. Gee sometimes I hate my pigheadedness. Luckily the bus only took 12 hours to drive us through the night to our destination.


And there Freya popped the question: Do I love her enough to board a vessel like this for 6 hours to cross 70 km of ocean?



Like once before, some 7 months ago, I said ‘Yes I do’, and off we went. The boat was packed full, the sea was rough, and I got soaking wet. I decided to challenge everything and everyone, so sat right on the stern of the boat. It was here that I could put my power of mind to the test. I had, a little while ago already, decided that I was never going to be seasick no more. Full stop. And the mind was strong. So now I read a book whilst the swell lifts and dumps the boat I am reading on. I even sleep comfortably on a boat, and have no hassle looking through binoculars whilst on a boat. Good mind, thank you mind. But heck I got wet there. My pride disallowed me to retreat amongst all the other people on the boat, as I was already wet anyways. So I decided to take the waves as a man and pretend I ‘enjoyed’ them drenching me. Strong mind, stupid pride…


Kind as always Freya advices me to use sunscreen lotion. But unlike her usual advice, this time she wasn’t specific. Now how on earth am I supposed to know that with ‘Don’t forget your neck!’ she also meant the front side of my neck? And she didn’t even mention feet at all! See here the result of six hours on the stern of a boat.



Having arrived at Camiquin, one the these Babuyan Islands, we settle in at Freya’s old host for a ‘home stay’, although we got appointed a partially finished house for ourselves with a private bedroom and private bathroom (read: cubicle with a huge drum of water). Let it be clear that in Manila already I had decided to retrieve my ditched backpackers-attitude, so I was not even surprised. And it was clean, so all was good. However, our host had forgotten, or had not understood, that Freya was a vegetarian… So as she proudly tells us lunch is ready we find a big bowl of rice, a bottle of banana ketchup, and 2 lobsters for lunch!
 


Freya and I had a good chuckle about the matter and then politeness dictated that Freya would eat at least half a lobster, while I worked my way through the rest. And in the evening we got rice again, but this time with grilled corned beef… After one bite it was decided that this was too much for Freya, and we quickly formed a master plan. Freya would eat rice, I would have rice and corned beef, and Freya’s portion of the latter I would feed to one of the many street dogs roaming around the island. Not a single dog to be seen though, so after a couple of minutes of me making a fool of myself I chucked all pieces of corned beef in the nearest rice paddy. Problem solved.


The next day our real holiday would start: Finally we got to relax and enjoy ourselves. We boarded an even smaller vessel than the day before, that would bring us to another nearby island for some snorkeling, swimming and sunbathing. What to say? Mindblowing it was! Bounty island, shining sun, crystal clear waters, and an incredible variety of corals and associated life. Pictures say more than words:






We even found a sea snake!




But not only that. Having assumed the backpackers-attitude again, I can once again thoroughly enjoy all new experiences that take me out of my comfort zone. It is amazing to see myself so easily taking on a reactive attitude instead of a pro-active one. I mean, we are completely out of control, with our friendly hosts hardly speaking any English, so they basically decide when we eat, what we eat, what we do in a day, when and how it will go. And we just nod and say okay to whatever they are trying to propose, and we’ll see what happens. So far so good and by letting go of all control we have experienced some awesome things and situations that we would not even have been able to ask for.  On Sunday we attended mass in a local Catholic church with our hosts, to see how they experience and practice their religion. Afterwards we were taken on their usual ‘Sunday Picnic’ at some family friends, who live on the shore of a lake in the middle of the bush. There, fresh fish was caught and prepared on the spot. It looked pretty disgusting (like most food they prepare for us here I must admit), but it tasted remarkably good. Then we were invited to come and check out their cattle inland of which one apparently had a sore leg. So we stomped single file through jungle and rice-paddies, all in all some beautiful sights.












Another aspect that I thoroughly enjoy whilst here is the fact that I allow time for philosophical thoughts again, instead of just practical thoughts. The lack of internet, (of all electricity even) on this island, creates a wealth of time just sitting and looking outside, observing life. And I must admit that I have come to the realization that allowing time for ponderous thought is something I have sorely missed over the past few years setting up a business and attaining new and higher guiding qualifications. There is more to life than just moving on and growing a company bigger fast, oriented on the future only. I think I am starting to unwind here ;-)


And the people, so super friendly, and so different from us, which by default makes them interesting. I will never forget the taxi driver in Manila who asks me: ‘So, you say you are from Africa right? Then why are you not nigga?’ And why does everybody look at me strangely when I say ‘Yebo yebo, Shap Shap’ to them? Yesterday I was invited to play some pool with some locals, and they just sank the black ball in the middle of the game! With simple English, hand and feet I try to find out what happens to the rules, and it turns out they were under the impression that the black ball was one of the solids. When I pointed out that that would mean that the person playing solids always had one more ball to sink than the one that would play halves, which would be unfair, they looked intrigued. ‘That did make sense…’ I managed to explain them most of the official pool rules, and they were super exited. Then they annihilated me anyways…


We were originally planning to stay a couple of days here, but then a approaching typhoon rendered the sea too rough for a passage, so we were stuck for another number of days. This gave us the opportunity to watch the whole island starting an emergency harvest off all rice, before the typhoon would hit and destroy everything. The windows of some of the houses were reinforced, and emergency lights were supplied for the moment the typhoon would hit. We were advised to move to the central room of our house when it would hit, that would be the safest. Without internet we have no idea how strong this typhoon is and what was going to happen, so we just sat and waited to see what would happen. We got some strong winds and heavy rains, but the typhoon verged towards the east and thus largely missed ‘our’ island. Another two days later the coast guard allowed vessels to cross the ocean again.


So now here we are again in Manila, for a stop over, before we fly to Palawan Island